Sunday, April 3, 2011

Zion- Touchstone Wall

Mark and I drove into Zion from Vegas and made it there in the afternoon. We decided we had time to fix one pitch then go set up camp. The next day was quite cold so it took us a while to get going, started jugging the first pitch around 7:30AM. Mark led the aid crux pitch # 2, after following on the jumars I was felling a little tired, probably from being cold hanging at the belay. After leading pitch 3 I started to feel much better. Mark led the long 4th pitch then I took over and free climbing the reaming 5 pitches to the top. I found the climbing very enjoyable although a little loose or sandy in spots. Climbing in Zion is always an adventure and we topped out a little after 5:00PM and the long decent brought us to the ground around 7:15. I would deffinitly go back and do this one again as it is just plain fun!
The approach a Short 5 minutes from the road
We found this at the base, who wants to claim it.
Mark cleaning pitch 1
Mark leading Pitch 2
Mark cleaning pitch 3




Pitch 5
Pitch 6
Pitch 7
Summit
Back at Camp

Black Orpheus and Bird Land

Mark and I drove into Red Rocks from St. George and decided to climb Black Orpheus a 1300' 5.10 route  that would be mostly in the sun. I did most of the leading as Mark has had a 5 year layoff from free climbing. We got stuck behind another party on the upper pitches and had to wait a little bit. When we topped out the winds were blowing near 50mph and would knock you over if you were not bracing yourself. We made it back to the car as the sun was setting. The next day was beutiful and as we were little tired and still wanted to do some climbing we decided to do the classic 5.7 5 pitch climb called Birdland. As anticipated it was crowded but we took our time and enjoyed the nice warm day climbing in the sun.
Mark already gripped on the 4th class approach

Mark fighting the wind on the Summit of Black Orpheus
Another Day at the Office

Our Junk Show

Mark on the Last Pitch of Birdland

Fear Loathing and Bad Weather in Zion & Vegas

Rainbow and Red Rocks
Kathy and I made the trip from Moab to Zion National Park to discover that it was raining and snowing and the forecast did not look good for the next few days. The decided to continue westward to Vegas where we would be meet up with Heather and Kathy T. Kathy and I got in a half day of sport climbing at the gallery, it was quite the scene with all the sportos, Kathy was my rope gun for the day. The campground was full of spring breakers so the 4 of piled into one of the smallest motel rooms if have ever stayed. It was quite the scene with all the climbing gear and limited floor space.  The four of us headed to Black Velvet Canyon on the first day, Kathy and I began on Triasic Sands and then followed behind Heather and Kathy T. on Dream of Wild Turkeys for a couple of pitches, cold weather forced us to retreat back to the car. The next day the girls did some aid practice, I took a rest day. The following day Kathy and I were going to do Eagle Dance a long route on Eagle wall, however we were thwarted by more rain. Kathy needed to be back in seattle by Monday so we decided to drive back to Zion that day to pick up her dog and so she could get started on the drive. I sat in the tent in the rain til Mark arrived the next day. We deceided to go back to Vegas for a few days then come back and do a big wall in Zion once the weather improved.

Indian Creek Part One




Made it to Indian Creek after a long winter layoff from climbing. I met up with a crew of texas climbers and had a great week climbing with them. Dima gets photos credit for most of the photos below. Kathy made it out from Seattle and we got some good days in together and my friend Mark joined us on our last day before Kathy and I left for Zion National Park.
Running it out on Icredible Hand Crack 5.10
Stonemaster Legend Barry Bates Giving me a Belay
Another Redpoint of Coyne Crack 5.11+
More Coyne
Breakfast at Indian Creek
Indian Creek Night Life
Morning Coffee
Me Leading Pigs on the Wing 5.11 @ "the Wall", Kathy belaying notice the penalty slack she is giving me, lol!
Getting Psyched for the next climb